This summer we had the absolute pleasure to experience climbing at 'Elbsandsteingebirge' in Eastern Germany. Matt and I were psyched to link up with master climber @robert.leistner who showed us around his home crag by the German/Czech border. In many ways climbing is unique there. The old traditions are taken very serious in Elbsandstein. This includes no metal "trad" protection allowed, such as stoppers, cams, etc (to avoid damage to the soft sandstone). Instead, different diameter of rope pieces for different sized cracks are used and tied into a sling with a knot (usually just an overhand or a figure 8) to then be 'stuffed' and 'jammed' into the cracks for protection. On a closer look you can see a stick on a carabiner on Robert's rack for setting, adjusting and removing placements (which, compared to removing cams turns out quite tricky when following). Despite the many obligatory "trad"/knot placements, there are a few bolts on many routes which are often run out and by most people considered scary leads.Other ethics include no chalk and historic free ascents were totally valid as a team effort. Climbing on the shoulders, hips, or thighs of your team member's bodies to reach a hold or enter a crack system is totally legit and considered a free ascent. See the vintage b/w pics from one of the many official climbing clubs that still play a significant role in maintaining the traditional climbing ethics. Most towers have rappelling options with probably the fattest bolts and rings I have seen outdoors (rappelling off one bolt/ring is standard). Summit registers are part of the climbing experience because only free standing towers (providing quite the summit experience) are legally open for climbing.Despite the absolute excitement to finally get to climb at this unique place, our day was mellow and relaxing! A heat wave had just hit Germany and scorching temperatures at over 100 degrees let us focus on other beautiful things such us bathing in the river and eating ice cream in the village nearby.Thanks to Robert's motivation and general passion to show us the area, we still managed to gear up for 3 pitches.

This summer we had the absolute pleasure to experience climbing at 'Elbsandsteingebirge' in Eastern Germany. Matt and I were psyched to link up with master climber @robert.leistner who showed us around his home crag by the German/Czech border. In many ways climbing is unique there. The old traditions are taken very serious in Elbsandstein. This includes no metal "trad" protection allowed, such as stoppers, cams, etc (to avoid damage to the soft sandstone). Instead, different diameter of rope pieces for different sized cracks are used and tied into a sling with a knot (usually just an overhand or a figure 8) to then be 'stuffed' and 'jammed' into the cracks for protection. On a closer look you can see a stick on a carabiner on Robert's rack for setting, adjusting and removing placements (which, compared to removing cams turns out quite tricky when following). Despite the many obligatory "trad"/knot placements, there are a few bolts on many routes which are often run out and by most people considered scary leads.Other ethics include no chalk and historic free ascents were totally valid as a team effort. Climbing on the shoulders, hips, or thighs of your team member's bodies to reach a hold or enter a crack system is totally legit and considered a free ascent. See the vintage b/w pics from one of the many official climbing clubs that still play a significant role in maintaining the traditional climbing ethics. Most towers have rappelling options with probably the fattest bolts and rings I have seen outdoors (rappelling off one bolt/ring is standard). Summit registers are part of the climbing experience because only free standing towers (providing quite the summit experience) are legally open for climbing.Despite the absolute excitement to finally get to climb at this unique place, our day was mellow and relaxing! A heat wave had just hit Germany and scorching temperatures at over 100 degrees let us focus on other beautiful things such us bathing in the river and eating ice cream in the village nearby.Thanks to Robert's motivation and general passion to show us the area, we still managed to gear up for 3 pitches.